Zaki came to Tokyo to collect her mother around about the time of the Chita Rivera post, and the Mexican and I met her off the train. Of course, Miss Thang was about a week late, so plans of karaoke/dinner/dancing/anything needed to be shelved because I couldn't afford to stay out all night. (The Mexican and I had in fact had dinner beforehand and gotten in a dance to "Hung Up" before Z arrived...)
I had been up late working the night before so I was a dreadful host, leaving poor Z to watch movies all night after I disintegrated.
Sunday, I met Shin and Mark for some Karaoke in Hachioji, and was reminded of how toxic and dangerous J-pop can be (cut to me getting home that night and watching a variety of music videos from such true talents - not - as Koda Kumi and Amuro Namie... In fairness, the videos are often fabulous. It's the music itself that sticks in your head). After we sang our hearts out we went for dinner in a nice izakaya and introduced Mark to the wonders of ume-shuu (plum liquor!). This made us all drunk enough to agree to go into Shinjuku to accompany M while he waited for his date. So we went to a quiet bar and sat and stared, exhausted, at a concert by Koda Kumi that was conveniently playing on the wall. M's date arrived, and Shin and I went home.
Monday I spent working on my book proposal - yes, people, it might actually be published sometime this year! - and generally feeling unwell. Also I paid my health insurance, fearing that the malaise might need serious attention.
Tuesday I went and met Kan from Company Izuru. ANYONE IN LONDON MUST GO SEE THIS SHOW, IT'S FABULOUS! (See image below) . I have been working on translations for their programme also, and we had a good laugh in Hiroo as we figured out what he wanted me to say and how he wanted it said. His appreciation for blank verse is commendable!
After meeting Kan I met a Chinese friend for dinner in Ginza. I was knocked for six by how spookily he resembles the Mexican. What a funny old world...
Wednesday morning I bit the bullet and found a clinic in Aoyama that I could visit to get myself looked at. I had a swollen gland (think My Big Fat Greek Wedding - "it was my twin!") and it was clearly bugging me. Having battled with my Japanese and the relatively patient ladies at the front desk, I was finally seen by the doctor, who told me it was a lymph node infection, and sent me out to wait for my drugs. These were delivered in a cute little bag, with clear instructions etc. But I only got enough for 4 days! And, surprise surprise in this delicate, gentle country, they appear to have had absolutely no effect...
That evening I went over to Takuma's house for a new phenomenon (here at least) known as American Idol night. The show is broadcast on cable here, but they show the entire week's shows together so it's a 3 hour epic. I know I'm very new to this year's show and all, but there's only one contestant for me, and that's Mandisa. If that lady doesn't win, I don't know what.
Thursday, feeling better (probably the placebo effect of just HAVING drugs) I got up early and went to Nishimachi International School to give a presentation to a class full of 14 year-olds, whose teacher had asked me to come speak to them about Greek drama and my "work". I felt so grown up. Despite my fears, they were absolutely lovely and very attentive. Thank god for powerpoint and dvds, I guess. Cleverly, I spoke for almost all of the allotted time, leaving very little room for questions. And those that slipped through were amazingly informed and insightful.
But no, I still don't want to be a teacher.
That evening I headed out in the foul weather to the Irish ambassadorial residence (incidentally JUST across the street from Nishimachi school) for a function to celebrate St. Patrick's Day. This was a big hoo-ha, but it was very nice, and I met some fascinating people, including a professor from Sophia University and one John Dillon, Greek professor in Trinity, who just happened to be in Tokyo. It was rather startling to see such a sophisticated and distinguished crowd descending on the plush buffet spread, particularly when the (Irish) sausages were served and all dignity was eschewed, in a display only worthy of a Biblical pack of locusts...
Paddy's day itself was absolutely lousy. I was on my way to Saitama for the first day of Ninagawa's Titus rehearsals, when I fainted on the train and banged my tired head. So I went home and went to sleep. All day. That evening I called home to wish birthday/patrician greetings to all, and then got an email from Maria wondering if I'd be free to go to Shizuoka (halfway between Tokyo and Nagoya) to see a play the following day. Now, y'all know me and what a sucker I am for a play I like directed by someone famous... This was the Bacchae, remixed (see below! :P) by Suzuki Tadashi, perhaps Ninagawa's only real rival. So of course I agreed to go.
I paid a fabulously decadent sum for a return day ticket on the Bullet train and arrived quite relaxed at Shizuoka, in good time for the performance. Changed trains, got as far as Higashi-Shizuoka (where I was supposed to go) and was really impressed by the lovely station and shopping complex right there. I hopped into a taxi, and showed the driver the flyer for the performance and the map attached. Now, this woman was either biscuit-takingly stupid, or the most evil hostile bitch I have ever met. I knew the theatre was about 3 minutes from the station, so I was a bit confused when we seemed to be 8 minutes away from the whole town. The cow deposited me at Suzuki's performing arts centre, SPAC, which is his (amazing looking, delighted I got the chance to see it, but that's not the point because it wasn't where the show was on) base in the area. She took my money and scarpered, leaving me in the worryingly-empty car-park. I found a security guard at the gate, proferred my flyer (thank god I'd grabbed a few in the station) and asked, winsomely, if this was where the show was on. He was absolutely LOVELY, and said no, that the show was on in the theatre beside the station, and that the taxi-driver was a profiteering shameless bad person. Or words to that effect. It was by now 2.30, and the show was starting, so I asked, defeated, which of the two shows in the programme would begin first. Amused, he reassured me that what I'd come to see hadn't started yet... He ordered a taxi for me (and charged it to the S.P.A. Center!!) and sent me on my way. Of course, while I was waiting for the cab, it started pouring rain...
FINALLY I got back to the theatre (which was inside the posh-looking shopping centre beside the station!) and was met at the door by two very worried-looking assistants who ushered me to a seat and looked after me as though my lateness was somehow their fault. I only saw the last 15 minutes or so of "Nina" the modern dance piece by Kanamori Joh that preceded Dionysus, but it was enough to make me even angrier at that stupid/nasty driver. (Of course it is partly my fault for not asking someone other than the taxi driver, I accept, but I'm the injured party and I'll bitch if I want to...) I shall certainly be looking out for anything else by this really interesting amazing choreographer...
Also spotted in the audience for this very limited-engagement double-bill were numerous fab actors and actresses, and Miyagi Satoshi, artistic director of Ku Na'uka Theatre Company, whose Antigone, Medea and Othello I saw in Tokyo. We love them....
So finally, after much consternation and gnashing of teeth, I was there, in Shizuoka, dripping wet, to see my first Suzuki production since coming to Japan. What was most striking was how similar the soundscape was to that of his Oedipus, which I'd seen in Epidaurus in 2002 - and you can take that either way, as a mark of a distinctive theatrical voice at work, or as a sign of someone who's done nothing new for four years....
The show was almost amazing - Suzuki's eye for composition is flawless and the stage always looked absolutely beautiful. But the acting wasn't particularly life-changing, and there were several cringe-worthy moments. Agave was the most impressive, but she appeared to be doing her best impression of Shiraishi Kayoko (awesome awesome Japanese actress who's worked with Suzuki AND Ninagawa...) who originated the role. I really enjoyed the performance, and I'm thrilled I got to see it, but it was reassuring to feel, as I left, that I'm certainly concentrating on the right septaguanarian Japanese theatre director...!
Sunday I did masses of laundry and tidied my room (I figure if I do Spring cleaning, it might actually become Spring...) and spent a good deal of time chatting to my new Thai friend. I have often heard that Thai people are wonderfully friendly, exuberant, kind and funny people, but my experience has been strange. There was Cortney's madcap friend Mary, who's just heaps of fun but whom I don't really know. I also lost a good Japanese friend to Thailand (he's obsessed with the place and has now moved there, boo hoo). And then of the actual Thais I have made friends with, the first turned out to be a total bore, and the second is very confused and introverted and a huge amount of work. So now I have a new Thai friend (am I not a saint for never giving up?!) and he's a hoot and a half, and all of those nice things Thais are rumored to be. So hurrah! Third thai's the charm....
PS If anyone has a version of Bonnie Tyler's Holding Out for a Hero, please please let me know. Am trying to find a particular one, which is beyond description, so all help gratefully received...
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